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2005年07月25日

湯沢の湯治宿にて

7月3日

明日4日から糸魚川でカンヅメ生活に入る。
ここからだと集合時間に間に合わないので、前泊をすることにした。
都内の友人宅にお邪魔してもいいんだけど
折角だからもっと近くで温泉に入れるところがいいな。
と探し出したのが越後湯沢温泉。

どのみち新幹線で湯沢トランジット、はくたかで糸魚川と
いつもの(毎年夏に黒部に行くのと同じ)ルートなんだしね。

というわけで湯沢で思いっきり相変わらずの風まかせ
バックパッカーの血が騒ぐ(笑)宿を見つけ予約を入れた。
なんと、素泊まり25ドル。ウソです、2500円。海外のユースやYWCAみたいでしょ?

ホテルは贅沢なシティホテルが好き。
でも湯宿は素泊まりできて放置しておいてくれるところが好き。
なぜかって、いろんな人が入れ替わり立ち代り部屋に入ってくるのがいやで
なおかつ朝が苦手で和の朝食(ごはん)が食べられない私には
元々旅館って向いてないんだって、きっと・・・

さすがに価格の面から「大丈夫か?」と思ったりもしたんだけど
これが思いもかけず大当たりの宿。
う、黒の絞りで誂えてから一度も袖を通してない浴衣持ってくるんだった!
と思ってしまうようなクラシックな湯治宿でした。

湯沢の駅で降りるのは実を言うと初めて。
いつもここではくたかに乗り換えて黒部まで直行してしまうから。
つい先日、3月黒部に行った帰りには豪雪の土地らしく
また川端康成の「雪国」の舞台らしく一面真っ白な景色だったのですが
今回は初夏の湯沢です。

駅の構内には「ぽんしゅ館」という日本酒のミュージアムと温泉があり
荷物を置いたら飲みにこよう!と意気揚揚と宿へ。
人気のない道をトランク引きずって歩いていくと、宿発見。

とにかく部屋にはトイレもTVも何もないと説明があったので
どんな部屋なんだ?と不思議な気分で先払いを済ませ階段をのぼると
しっかりトイレもTVもあるお部屋にアップグレードしてくれていたようです。
ただエアコン(冷房)はなかったけどね。でも涼しかったので結局要らなかったな。

荷物を置いて夕食がてら駅に戻る。
ぽんしゅ館はまだ開いていて、早速ふらっと行ってみることにした。
何しろ酒は日本酒というポリシーの私は
全国の中で新潟の日本酒が一番好き!行かない理由はない(笑)
普段飲みなれた上善如水や久保田、寒梅から
他の地方には出さないスペシャルなお酒まで、新潟県の酒なら何でも売ってます。
美味しい!買っていきたい!と思ってはみたものの
明日から勉強でしょ?宿舎にカンヅメでしょ?と思ってさすがに自制しました。
(大学時代ベロベロに酔って帰ってCueシート書いてた人の発言とは思えません)

近くにへぎそばのお店があったのだけれど、それを素通りして夕食を買って宿に帰る。
今日は軽く食べて温泉を楽しむんだもん♪
旅に出ると適当に口に入れているか、スペシャルなセッティングをして食べに出るか
どちらか二択になってしまう、そして食の細くなる私は
今回は場所も場所なので適当に口に入れて満腹にしておしまい。

一休みしてお風呂に行くと、女湯の前にとても気になる小さな部屋発見。
古びた木の札にこれまた小さく「図書室」って書いてある。
RPGならここに手がかりがあるはず(笑)または金田一耕助風。
まだ外は明るいのにうす暗い畳敷きの部屋に入ってみると
ぽつんとこれまた年代を感じさせる書棚に真っ赤なボックスでそろえられた
「日本文学全集」がきちんと並んでいた。(写真にアップしました)

今にもよだれをたらしてがっつきそうな衝動を押さえて(笑)
とりあえず先にお風呂に入る。
(そうしないと本だけ読んで風呂に入らず滞在が終わってしまう可能性あり)
お湯も気持ちとろみのある、かけ流しの湯で温度もちょうど良く気持ちいい。
すでに入っているときから眠気を誘うような心地よさ。
でも、さっき発見してしまった全集が気になってしょうがなく
汗を流す程度で折角のいいお湯を飛び出す(←バカです)

湯上がり着を着て図書室にまた戻り、何を読もうか一悩み。
本当なら白秋先生が読みたかったんだけど、残念ながらなかったので
室生犀星を持っていそいそと部屋に戻る。
まだ文字が読める程度に夕陽が明るく、窓辺に置かれた古い肘掛け椅子に座り
黙々と犀星を読みふける。
ああ、やっぱ自前の浴衣着て読みたかったわ・・・

暗くなり文字が読めなくなってはっと気づいた頃には
とっぷりと虫の音さえ聞かれない静かな夜が湯沢には訪れていて
さらにTVの横にあった「雪国」をななめ読みし
犀星を返して今度は太宰を借りてきて読む。
温泉入って太宰、なんて贅沢~(笑)これで酒があったら言うことなし。
次に来るときは自前の浴衣と酒を持って数日滞在かな?

まるで昔祖母が住んでいた古い家に帰ってきたかのような
なつかしい空気でいっぱいの宿を
たった一晩で去らねばならなかったのは本当に残念で
結局早く寝るつもりが夜半まで全集を読みふけり、知人に万年筆で手紙を書き
(私は湯治に来た明治の文人か?)
次の日はまた湯につかってリフレッシュして宿を発つことができました。

・・・う、これを書いていてもまた泊まりに行きたくなってきた。

投稿者 Minako : 2005年07月25日 23:02

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